As the first British Colonial settlement in Nova Scotia, outside Halifax, Lunenberg dates back to 1753. If like many Canadian children, you ate the odd fish finger or two, you may be interested to know that this is also where Captain Highliner hangs out.
The brightly painted buildings, many of which date back to 1700s and 1800s, and the beautiful natural setting make Lunenberg a picturesque town, whose original plan and architecture has changed little in 250 years.
Lunenberg has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site based on its natural and cultural significance. Apparently it’s also a good place to get your tall ship fixed. More on that later.
We arrived in the late afternoon, we spent some time exploring before grabbing a bottle of wine and having a pre-dinner drink on our balcony overlooking the harbour. (Compared to Halifax, we found Lunenberg to be fairly sleepy). That said, along the waterfront, there is so much colour and texture. Many working shipbuilders make their homes here.
The bright colours were perfect agains the grey sky which had descended for just a few hours.
The next day it was up early for breakie which was hard to find before 9am. My brother and I ended up in Fulton’s General Store which is one of those fabulous places that all medium sized towns have where you can buy a pair of underwear, a wedding present or a cold remedy all under one roof. They had delicious coffee and bacon cheddar muffins individually wrapped in cling film with hand written tags. We later met my dad at the Dockside Restaurant and had some more coffee while he had a traditional fry up which looked, and by all reports was fantastic, and later would receive the best breakfast of the trip award.
Those who know me well and have travelled with me before know that I have been afflicted with what I like to call the almighty curse of the scaffolding. Where I go, it goes. Yep, if there’s something worth seeing, chances are it’s under construction. London, New York, Madrid – I’ve had the pleasure of viewing Big Ben, The New York Public Library and the stunning Plaza de Correos, under scaffolding. And so it was in Lunenberg, UNESCO World Heritage site and home of the Bluenose II (aka the #1 thing to see here, racing ship, fishing vessel and Canadian icon) and yes, you guessed - it’s currently being rebuilt. So after breakfast we donned our hard hats and visited it in a massive covered shed.
It was still fairly interesting to see and it seems a massive undertaking with the hull being completely rebuilt. I’m told she will be ready for sail again in spring of 2012 so one day I hope to see her in her full glory. Until then, anyone who wants to keep tabs on the restoration can do so via live webcam. Interesting they’ve got quite a bit done since I was there.
This was our last day in Nova Scotia so after our tour of Bluenose II we hit the road for beautiful, sunny PEI.